Around the time that Bill Fisher was incinerating the penguin, my friend Horacio and I went to visit Mendoza
province in Argentina. Horacio was overweight, at least 60 years
old, and I was 28, which meant he was the boss and I carried his bags. We flew from Buenos Aires to the city of Mendoza.
There we rented a Ford Falcon, and drove to a small town near the Neuquen
border, San Rafael, where we got two rooms in the best hotel in town.
The purpose of our trip was to snoop
around YPF´s Mendoza oil fields, because
they had announced plans to allow private
companies to obtain service contracts. San Rafael is in the Andes foothills, so
even though the scenery was a bit dry we had beautiful views of snow capped
mountains due West of town.
Andes foothills, due West from
the plain where Llancanelo Lake is located
Driving from our hotel base in San
Rafael we started visiting the Andes foothills, collecting rocks and
taking pictures. We went to remote
places. For example, one day Horacio, who had the map and gave directions,
remarked we were pretty close to the hillside where a plane full of Uruguayan rugby players
had crashed (this was the crash whose survivors had eaten the bodies of the dead).
The last day of our visit, before returning to Mendoza, Horacio wanted us to visit the
Llancanelo lagoon . Today the lake is a bird sanctuary, a tourist spot, but at that time it was isolated and had no visitors. That lagoon is salty, because it gathers water flowing from the Andes, but there´s no outlet, and the terrain around it is desert-like.
The day before going to the lake we had been roaming the hills. The climate was cool but very dry, so we had drunk almost all our water bottle supply, and where down to one liter. So, as we were heading out the hotel I suggested we stop and buy water jugs and oranges for the trip. Unfortunately, Horacio refused and added: "We are only going 50 km, we´ll look over the place, take photographs, and be back for a late lunch."
And thus it came to pass that we departed San Rafael without water or oranges, on our "short" trip to Llancanelo lake. I was driving while Horacio looked at his map and took pictures, the trip was enjoyable and time went by very fast. The landscape was barren, dusty, and dry, partly covered by volcanic rocks. To be honest, on the way I felt it was ugly, the best scenery was provided by the Andes, located behind our backs as we drove East towards the lake.
Llancanelo Lagoon
Eventually we saw the lake in the
distance, and as we got closer I realized the ground was getting pretty
soft. The Ford Falcon was a city car, and didn´t have good traction in the sandy soil, which led to my suggestion that we stop and walk to the lake.
But Horacio was pretty tired, said his feet hurt, and we should keep going.
I shrugged my shoulders, drove
another 100 to 200 meters, where the
ground got even softer, which made the car begin to shimmy and shake.
I warned Horacio there was no way we could keep driving over
that stuff, and started making a full turn to escape from that quagmire, but it was too late: when I made the
turn the car lost speed, ran out of
traction, and got stuck in the sand. We came to a full stop.
Imagine our horror when we realized we had been driving on a layer of soft sand which lied on a layer of hard sand about 10 cm
thick. The hard layer in turn floated on top of a mixture of quicksand which looked like a vanilla milkshake. And the car
had sunk into that crap up to the damn axles.
Horacio, seeing the our condition,
shouted, "Mother of God, this is hopeless, we're screwed!"
We were screwed alright...
I tried to calm him down, but after
checking the map I realized we were dozens of
kilometers from the paved road. We had a
liter of water, no food, and the sun was starting to burn us. In those days we didn´t have cell phones and we
didn´t even have a flare pistol or a way to make smoke signals….. Horacio was right....we were screwed.
Horacio decided immediately it would
be impossible to remove the Falcon from the
vanilla shake into which it had
fallen, and said we should walk out to see if we could somehow reach the paved
road, because no one was going to find us by the lake. I reminded him that in the desert it´s better to walk at night and hide from the sun
during the day. By then we had drunk our
lonely water bottle, and it was about 11
o'clock in the morning. That was by far the worst time of the day for a fat 60 year old to try to walk several dozen kilometers. I was in good shape, but I wasn´t willing to walk in the midday desert sun.
Horacio got really angry with me and told me he wasn´t going to
wait, because he didn´t think he could survive the day in the sun, and the
Falcon was an oven. For my part I said I would rather see if I could get the
car unstuck. After fifteen minutes of arguing and fighting, Horacio decided he would
go alone, and so he left, walking slowly.
I was young, so I was
convinced I was going to survive. I knew the mud under the car was very soft
and I had to find solid material to put under the wheels until the wheels had traction.
So I got to work.
I emptied a burlap sack that we had in the car where Horace
had his rock collection, tied it with a rope around my waist, and started walking around the car in spirals,
looking for suitable material to put under the wheels.
I found many useful things walking
those spirals. I must add that I´m very grateful to the pigs who had visited the
place for so many years, and had left behind
cans, grills, broken chairs, pieces of wood, and all kinds of trash around the
lake (I am sure that today the place is cleaner because Argentines are more
respectful of the environment, but at that time they were a bit sloppy).
I was
picking up trash, bushes, everything that could get in the sack and then drag back
to the Falcon. Imagine my delight when I found a
mummified rhea (guanaco)! As you know, the rhea is a pretty big bird, and in
the desert the dead are either eaten by vultures or they mummify. I grabbed that big bird´s mummy,
dragged him back to the Falcon, and concluded I had enough junk to get to work.
Ñandu or Rhea (alive)
First I had to lift the car, to put
the wheels alightly above ground level rather than have them buried in the mud.
That´s easy to say,
but it took a lot of work to do it, because the jack would sink in the mud and failed
to raise the car an inch. Then I thought of Archimedes, and placed the jack on
a half barrel someone had used as a grill.
I put the jack in
the middle of the half drum, and when I jacked the Falcon rose! I repeated this
wheel by wheel. Once each wheel was above ground level, I put the garbage I had gathered in the pit where the wheel had been buried. And I put the rhea and a bunch of cans under the Falcon´s single
traction wheel.
I had worked on this project for four to five hours, and I was nearly dead.
I took a little air out of the tires (I
had learned this trick while getting stuck and out of trouble on the beach in Florida), I
gathered all my things, and I sat behind
the wheel.
At that moment I felt like an
astronaut riding on top of a Saturn V, ready to fly into space. If the trick didn´t work, I was going to be royally screwed. By then I was convinced that Horacio was dead,
and if I didn´t didn´t get that car to
move they would find me mummified like the
rhea.
But luckily when I stepped on the
accelerator the Falcon started throwing
garbage and pieces of rhea, lurched forward, and reached harder ground in seconds. I was
so scared I kept driving away from the lake at least one kilometer before I
stopped to see what the hell I had left
behind.
Then I noticed vultures circling a few kilometers away and started to worry about Horacio. I
was nearly dead, and convinced that
Horacio, given his age and fatness,
couldn´t possibly be alive.
I continued driving towards the place where I saw the vultures, imagining
horrors. It bothered me intensely to be
aware that I was too weak to lift
Horacio´s corpse and put it in the trunk. It didn´t
seem such a good idea to tie Horacio
by the feet and drag him behind the car all the way to the paved road. And if I left Horacio there, the vultures were going to
eat him. I was pained by thoughts of Horacio´s wife cursing me because I had left him behind.
Vulture grabbing a bone
I was thoroughly convinced that I would eventually find a dead man, so I was really surprised when I saw four men on
horseback in the distance. As they got closer I found out the group was three
Mapuche Indians carrying Horacio. The Mapuches had found him half dead, dehydrated, sunburned,
and they were bringing him back to find my corpse. You see, Horacio was
convinced I had already died of thirst, or lied crushed under the Falcon.
That evening was had a really good
time. The Mapuches were were part of a group that had crossed the Andes after
one of those earthquakes which devastate Chile occasionally, had hidden in the
desert, and scratched a living selling goats in San Rafael.
They were really friendly, took us
to their settlement, and gave us food
and water. I took their photos, which later I sent to the San Rafael post office (but don´t know if those Mapuches ever got them).
These Indians were good people, and in
the past they have been treated badly.
But they helped us and didn´t seem to give it much thought. So I want to dedicate this to
that group, because I'm sure they
saved Horacio´s life and saved me
from having to carry his body back to his wife.
Below I´m placing the photo of Chief Lautaro, a Mapuche who became
famous fighting for his people. And I want to add that if I ever have the opportunity
to help some of them in return I will do it, because they deserve much better
than what they got.
Chief Lautaro of the Mapuches